Retirement calculator

This compares two numbers: what your current savings and contributions are projected to grow into, and what your desired retirement income actually requires once inflation and a safe withdrawal rate are applied. The gap between them is the number that matters.

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4% is the common rule of thumb.
Projected at retirement
Target needed
Surplus / shortfall
Monthly needed to hit target
Projected balance to retirement
The dashed line is the target you need to hit.

How the target is worked out

Most retirement calculators quietly flatter you by comparing a future balance against a present-day income figure. This one does not.

Your target is built in two steps. First, the desired annual income is divided by the safe withdrawal rate, giving the pot required in today's money — at 4%, that is 25 times your income. Second, that figure is inflated forward to your retirement date, because the cost of the life you are describing will have risen by then.

The second step is the one usually skipped, and it is why targets look uncomfortably large. At 2.5% inflation, a 33-year horizon roughly doubles the cash figure required.

Withdrawal rates deserve scepticism

The 4% rule originated in an analysis of US market history over rolling 30-year retirement periods. It is a reasonable anchor and a poor certainty. Longer retirements, higher fees, different countries and different portfolio mixes all move the safe number, and the research disagrees with itself by a full percentage point in both directions.

Because of that, the withdrawal rate is an input here rather than a hidden constant. Try 3% to see a conservative target and 5% for an aggressive one. If your plan only works at 5%, it is fragile.

Three levers, in order of power

Time. Every extra year contributes twice — more contributions in, and more compounding on everything already invested. It is why a plan started at 30 is a fundamentally different exercise from one started at 45.

Retirement age. Delaying by two or three years adds growth years while removing years the pot has to fund. It moves both sides of the equation at once, which nothing else does.

Contribution rate. The most obvious lever and usually the hardest to pull far. Useful, but it cannot fully substitute for the first two.

What this does not model

State or employer pensions, tax treatment of different account types, employer matching, and any lump sums such as an inheritance or property sale are all excluded. Each can move the picture substantially, and all of them are jurisdiction-specific. Treat the output as a directional check, not a financial plan.

Frequently asked questions

How much do I need to retire?

A common starting point is the 4% rule: divide your desired annual income by 0.04, which is the same as multiplying it by 25. A $50,000 income implies a $1.25 million pot in today's money. That figure then needs inflating to your actual retirement date.

Is the 4% rule reliable?

It is a useful benchmark, not a guarantee. It came from US historical data over 30-year retirements and assumes a particular portfolio mix. Research since has argued for both lower and higher figures depending on retirement length, fees and country. Treat it as a checkpoint you revisit, not a settled fact.

Why is my target so much larger than my desired income?

Two effects stack. First, the pot has to fund every year of retirement, not one - a 25x multiple at a 4% withdrawal rate. Second, inflation raises the cash figure needed by your retirement date: at 2.5%, prices roughly double every 28 years.

What if I am behind?

The calculator shows the monthly contribution required to close the gap. Increasing contributions helps most when there is time for them to compound, so acting early beats acting hard. Working two or three years longer is also unusually powerful, because it adds contributions and growth while removing years the pot must fund.